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Anti-theft and Key or Not?

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  • Anti-theft and Key or Not?

    Greetings! It's been awhile but you know if I'm on this page it's because I'm driving my bird! Had my garage queen on a trickle charger, but I had to call AAA today for jump after all because although I was able to start engine and back out of garage just fine, apparently it was my mistake to turn the engine off once outside the garage (wanted to dust her off) - at least according to AAA technician.

    My problem I seeking advice on is that before I backed out of the garage, I touched the trunk, and the horn started blasting. I used the key fob to turn the horn blast off, but the problem continued when I next opened the door. I do recall that that the red light on top of dash has been either solid on or flashing (can't remember if flashing but definitely on) the entire time sitting in garage on trickle charge. While waiting for AAA, I read the user manual for my car and I understood to turn off the alarm I needed to press the unlock button on key fob, or the alarm button on key fob with key in #2 position. After jump start, I drove for about 30 minutes and built up the battery, made a short stop and turned off the engine. Went to restart and be on my merry way but the horn starts blasting again and engine won't turn even after I stopped the horn using key fob. Finally pulled key out of ignition, pushed the alarm button on key fob, re-inserted key and car started just fine, whew!

    Unfortunately, this problem continued for next 3 stops and restarts and I just don't know how to disengage the blessed anti-theft system so that this issue doesn't repeat, stop, repeat! To be honest, I don't think I've ever purposely turned the anti-theft system on (as per the owners manual instructions). I also don't remember seeing the red anti-theft light illuminated until I starting using trickle charger this year.

    I talked with my nephew this evening that restores old / vintage cars, and his suggestion was to replace the battery in the key fob. A neighbor (annoyed with this mornings horn blast) tells me that it's not the fob but the key itself, and that it's not recognized in the ignition and is setting off alarm. On one hand, I'm glad to know that car will not start (engine turns over weak) if the anti-theft engaged, but it's annoying when the Owner can't properly turn alarm system off to get up and go! As always, welcome any input on how to proceed. Thanks for your courtesy.





  • #2
    How old is your battery? It sounds like a new battery will most likely solve your problems.

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    • #3
      Sure sounds like the battery

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      • #4
        It does sound like the battery but I wouldn't rule out the key fob battery, either. Also, the key fob itself may need cleaning.

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        • #5
          Karen, have you tried your spare key & fob to eliminate the key possibility? My bet is on the car battery itself. Our Birds LOVE a nice, fresh battery.

          RBIRD
          Be just what you is, not what you is not. Folks what do this is the happiest lot.....Mr. Wizard the Lizard

          The trouble with quotes on the internet is that you can never know for sure if they are genuine.....Abraham Lincoln

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          • #6
            99.99% sure you need a new car battery or have a charging system problem causing the battery to not charge. These cars will definitely set the alarm off with a weak battery.

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            • #7
              Your car needs a new battery.
              Apparently not holding a charge, probably has a bad cell.
              Mike

              sigpic

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              • #8
                A big thanks to each and everyone that responded! I can report that the problem is not the Key (and probably not the fob) as I tried spare key today and problem continues.

                This is what happened today: first thing I noticed was that the red anti-theft light was not illuminated when I walked in to the garage, and the horn did not begin blasting when I opened the car door. I inserted key, turned one position and then the red dash light started flashing. I turned key to ignite position and the horn begins blasting. I turned horn blast off from the key fob, but unlike yesterday when I was able to successfully start engine by completely removing key from ignition and retry, that is not working for me anymore -- the horn blasts every-time the key in engine ignite, preventing engine to start!

                I checked the battery and although only 172 miles driven since installed, it's definitely 2 years old. The battery was actually purchased from Ford Dealership because I was previously under the impression it was necessary for the "vented" battery. However, last year I learned from AAA tech that the battery installed by Dealer never completed the "vent connection." I presume it will be OK to purchase AAA battery? Ford Dealer is now Auto Nation and doesn't seem to be meeting customer expectations.

                Thanks again for response and support. I'll get working on a new battery, and hope next post is to inform you I'm driving to the car wash! Cheers!

                Karen

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                • #9
                  There's a reason Ford recommends a vented battery and that's to prevent some kind of gasses from building up in the closed & unvented trunk. If you can't get a MotorCraft battery there are other makers out there. I have an Interstate vented battery for my bird. Call around looking for a vented battery to fit your car.
                  T-Birding it's the only way to fly!
                  Richard & Gordon

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                  • #10
                    Had the same problem... Replaced the car battery and no more horn/anti theft alarms.

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                    • #11
                      If the battery is only two years old, there may be some pro-rated warranty value remaining. Not sure if the dealership would honor it or not since the Ford relationship change, but it might be worth checking.

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                      • #12
                        I’m wondering if the trickle charger was faulty and killed the battery. Normally a battery tender increases battery life. Maybe yours overcharged and burnt it up.

                        You definitely want a vented battery. For some reason a good number of techs forget to connect the vent tube. Poor knowledge I suppose.

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                        • #13
                          So this is interesting.....
                          when I got my 2004 the dealer put a new battery in it. It is a Motorcraft BXT– 66.(750 CCA but spec is for 650CCA) I used to do this stuff so I looked it up. Batteries come in group sizes, specifically BCI group like 24, or 27, and many many others. Our cars(and Lincoln LS's) call for a group 66. But it turns out got a group 65 is exactly the same size EXCEPT in total height to the top of the terminal. And this is the case for many batteries the very they can be very very close in size but not exact. In our cars the 2 mm lower Group 65 wouldn't make a difference, the question is does it have a vent?
                          Furthermore you can get the same Group size battery in different output, say 650 CCA or 750 CCA. Cc a is cold cranking amps.
                          Here comes an opinion: sometimes retailers will try to carry less inventory if they feel that one part number can do the job of multiple. So I wasn't too shocked when I saw that Rock auto for example, listed Group 65 batteries for the T birds. Someone could put it in and never notice a difference unless there was not a vent for the vent hose. Since I don't have a 65 battery in front of me I can't tell you whether it has a vent or not. But I can tell you that a group 65 battery is vastly more popular than 66. And and and if someone was stocking a store and they were concerned about earn and turn they would probably carry the 65 long before the 66.
                          Thats enough about battery sizes.....
                          As far as long term charging goes, I too use charge sensing trickle chargers, but don't trust them completely. So once the charge light is showing green. I may leave it on for another day or so more, but I then disconnect or turn it off for anywhere from 2 to3 weeks. Then repeat. I do it because I found the batteries whether smaller motorcycle or on our T birds seem to be happier. BTW the factory manual for our Tbirds says that if all is ok, the amp draw on a car that is off should be less than .05 amp. Any more than that points to a load or defect. Thats pretty small so I'd say give it +/- another .02.
                          Hope I'm not confusing
                          Al

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                          • #14
                            I forgot to say.... I figure your battery died, but if U have paperwork, They'll prorate the warranty and you'll get most of your $ in a credit towards the new Batt.

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                            • #15
                              Like Al, I don’t use the charger constantly. I just don’t trust them enough to leave and forget.

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