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  • Hard and Convertible Tops

    I removed the hardtop, for the first time, from our 04 T Bird which I purchased new. When new, I complained about squeeks and rattles so the dealer had the top off. Now I've discovered some problems. The dealer failed to replace the plastic hard top to body seal at that time. Instead they replaced the $200 seal set (current price) with some sort of greasy kid stuff. The Owners Manual(s) note that without the seal, it may leak and it has. The car in always garaged but we did get caught in the rain on two different occasions. As a result the top needs to be cleaned (washed). The dealer also messed up one of the two $17 8x1.25mm special order screws that fasten the hard top to the top of the windshield frame. (They call it the windscreen). The local hardware store has a screw that will work for about fifty cents but it's an Allen head so it won't work with the top removal tool. (I spent the $17 to find this all out)
    My two questions are as follows:
    1) Is there a less costly substitue for the top to body seal? The book sez that the expected life is (6) months.
    2) The book sez that the canvas, not vinyl, top should be washed only with high quality Ford approved convertible top soap. They don't have it and I frankly don't know what high quality means. Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Mac

  • #2
    Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

    I have no idea what the top to body seal is and I assume that mine was worn out years ago but there are lots of top cleaners that work just fine on the top. I suggest going to a Marine parts store and looking at the 303 products. They are the tops in quality and they work great. Cleaner, waterproofer etc. A cheaper alternative is in any auto parts store, look in the cleaners section for convertible top cleaner. I think Mothers makes one. I have used two or three different types and they all work pretty well.

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    • #3
      Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

      1. Hi Mac, and welcome to the best information for the 2002-05 Thunderbirds on the internet. The Search button at the top will become your friend.

      Now. The "seal" you speak of is the legendary "Mylar Strips". The Ford ones are not the best. Their newer versions are better, but $200 is way way off for them. The new "kit" from them retails at about $75. Try TeamFord, or SilverStateFord, both in LasVegas (Don't be upset if you dont see it on their inventory on the inernet, they can and do, get things we need for us). Or 3M, or other members here, for extra sets. Actually a good cleaning of the rubber base on your hardtop, and an amply coating of Silicone, will serve the purpose for a while. You should always clean and treat the rubber at every removal and reinstal anyway. A lot of us have opted for a Chrome piece, in lieu of the mylar tape. Gives a nice finished look when the top is off, and a great seal when it is on. Check with Aaron at ThunderbirdConcepts, or QAA. Both easy access thru here, or direct internet searches.
      The cleaner. The best out there is Haartz and Raggtop. Haartz, by the way is the manufacturer of the convertible tops. Another great one that they wont tell you about is the "303" product line. Whereas you have a light colored top, cleaning and then a treatment is wise, as no matter what you do, there will be dirt buildup in the folds. Those with the black tops get it also, they just don't see it like those of us with light colored tops do.
      Last edited by Ol'Dave; Jul 12, 2009, 12:19 AM.
      DaveR (as seen on survelance TV)

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      • #4
        Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

        The only thing I ever used to clean my canvas top was the same stuff I used to wash the car, it's Meguiar's gold class car wash and conditioner, the top still looks like it's new after a good wash up, and water still beads up on it.
        I have also used one of those little turbo vac brush gizmo's on it to remove cat hair from time to time.
        As for the seal for the HT...good luck
        Last edited by SKIPIFE; Jul 12, 2009, 12:37 AM.
        SKIPIFE <>< PSALM 118:8
        73 GMC M/H 08GMC CANYON, C/C 08 ROAD KING
        09 FLSTN, 11 CAMARO, TRIPLE BLACK, 11 SIERRA DENALI HD
        PLEASE BUY AMERICAN

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        • #5
          Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

          Body seal? I never used one and I get no leaking.

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          • #6
            Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

            If all you need is an Allen wrench for for the screws to work, just buy the Allen wrench.
            Body seal; Are you refering to the plastic tape that goes under the hard top so it does not scratch the paint on the rear deck? When i ran out of the Ford tape I was not going to pay big money for tape. I bought Scotch brand "Clear Repair Tape." It is 1.5in. wide on a roll. Most auto parts stores have it. It is very flexable and easy to install. Just put the excess of tape on the inside so you cant see it. I like it better than the Ford tape.

            Top Leaning; Just take the car to a professional car wash. It will look great after a normal wash. You don't need any Spl soap.
            Last edited by theflash; Jul 12, 2009, 10:50 AM.

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            • #7
              Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

              Thanks everyone for the excellent information.

              To "Ol Dave": I'm not clear on all comments - Is the new $75 tape kit from Ford and the dealers you mentioned. Also I'm not clear what is available from 3M. Very good info on the cleaner from Raggtop. The Haartz web-site recommends the Raggtop products. P.S. I'm also a conserative NRA guy.

              To "theflash": Thanks for the info on the Scotch brand "Clear Repair Tape." Also, the Allen head screws do fit but the Ford Torx head screw has a grove around the head for an "O" ring. I didn't know this until today when I installed the new one. The Torx slot on the old screw was all buggered-up from, my guess, an air tool.
              Mac

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              • #8
                Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

                Originally posted by McInroy View Post
                Thanks everyone for the excellent information.

                To "Ol Dave": I'm not clear on all comments - Is the new $75 tape kit from Ford and the dealers you mentioned. Also I'm not clear what is available from 3M. Very good info on the cleaner from Raggtop. The Haartz web-site recommends the Raggtop products. P.S. I'm also a conserative NRA guy.

                To "theflash": Thanks for the info on the Scotch brand "Clear Repair Tape." Also, the Allen head screws do fit but the Ford Torx head screw has a grove around the head for an "O" ring. I didn't know this until today when I installed the new one. The Torx slot on the old screw was all buggered-up from, my guess, an air tool.
                Mac
                One thing to remember if you are not that familiar with the top instalation, Do Not clamp down the rear clamps until the front screws have been started into the header threads. Found this out the hard way myself as the one on the driver side would not want to start into the thread. With the rear clamps not pulled down, it went in no problem. Just a precaution.
                MartinB.

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                • #9
                  Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

                  Can't say enough about Raggtop. Truly good product.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Hard and Convertible Tops

                    Originally posted by McInroy View Post
                    I'm not clear on all comments - Is the new $75 tape kit from Ford and the dealers you mentioned. Mac
                    Hi Mac, I have both the old and new protective strips from Ford, but just as collector items. I only used them one time, for a Hardtop Relay, and removed them the next morning. They were Ford's answer to avoid scratches on the sail panel of your Bird from the hardtop, not to keep water out of the soft top well.

                    The light colored soft tops are a "bear" to keep clean. Some folks have used a diluted bleach solution.
                    This thread should help you out.

                    http://www.thunderbirdnest.com/forum...=sand+cleaning
                    Last edited by redbirdsal; Jul 13, 2009, 12:04 PM.

                    Redbirdsal
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                    Native Texan
                    IRISH THRU & THRU!

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                    • #11
                      Hard top installation

                      Originally posted by snowbird View Post
                      One thing to remember if you are not that familiar with the top instalation, Do Not clamp down the rear clamps until the front screws have been started into the header threads. Found this out the hard way myself as the one on the driver side would not want to start into the thread. With the rear clamps not pulled down, it went in no problem. Just a precaution.
                      MartinB.
                      To further clarify: The rear clamps have three positions, fully open, closed and locked, and a mid-way position.

                      The instructions for removal of the top say to first unscrew both of the front screws all the way and then open the rear clamps all the way on both sides.

                      To Re-install the top, start with the rear clamps fully open and set the top in place. Move the rear clamp levers halfway back to the mid position. This will let the top settle down into the proper position but it leaves it somewhat free to float around a bit. Start the front screw on one side but don't tighten it all the way, again to leave the top free to shift as needed. Tighten the front screw on the opposite side all the way down. Go back and tighten the first front screw the rest of the way. Then move both rear clamp levers to the back closed and locked position. Check both front screws to make sure they are fully tightened.
                      ~Jimmy
                      Native Texan
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